Good Dirt On Food

This book by Francine Maroukian is a handy reference book to have around. It’s a paperback book, not very expensive (retails for $16.95) and can be read rather quickly. Just like the title states it contains a number of techniques as told by experts in their fields.

There are eight chapters: Technique, Meat & Poultry, Fish & Shellfish, Produce, Rice, Beans & Pasta, Kitchen Staples, Desserts & Baking, and Equipment. The tips range from the everyday, “I already knew that” like How to Detach a Stuck Cheese Wrapper to the esoteric, How to Make a Chocolate Bag.

It is a book for those who already cook. There is not enough detail on some of the tips for beginners but enough for those who are comfortable in the kitchen. Already know how to make crème caramel but can’t seem to get rid of the bubbles? Chef Emile Castillo explains how to get the smooth and dense texture. Do you soak beans before cooking them? Chef John Manion says don’t bother and gives a recipe for cooking beans with pork fat. There are some gems like the tip from Chef Mark Filippo about consistenly producing tender shrimp. His tip is to brine them for about 30 minutes first.

I refer to Maroukian’s book when I’m doing something that I don’t do very often or when a customer has a question and the answer is in the book. Chef’s Secrets is nice to have around just like other reference material. I would not call it an essential cook book to have in your collection but could come in handy.

I really like this book and have recommended it to a lot of beginner to intermediate cooks. Jacques Pépin Celebrates by Jacques Pépin is the companion book to his series on PBS. There are many recipes and at the beginning of the book are the 13 show menus with wine pairings.

“So these menus are intended to help. I hope that you will adapt them to your style of cooking and enjoy them with your family and your friends.”

He lets us know early on that it is fine (and expected) to make substitutions in the wine and adapt to what produce is available. I have talked to a number of customers who cook strictly by the recipe and I always let them know that I generally don’t. I refer to recipes for ideas and use them as guides. One of the things I like about cooking is the creative process. When I make baked goods I will usually follow the recipe the first time.

The recipes here are wonderful but the reason I recommend this book so much is because of the techniques that are covered and then you can put them to use in the recipe. The pictures are wonderful and you can easily see what he is talking about so that you know what to look for in your own kitchen. The examples that have helped me the most are the sections on boning-filleting-removing skin from fish, cleaning leeks, and boning poultry. Basic information that will improve your work in the kitchen and make it more enjoyable.

There are also a number of good tips. One of the stand outs is “how to make a proof box” in the Bread chapter. It’s like an Alton Brown thing. Basically, you use a cardboard box (with the top and one side removed) large enough to accommodate a baking sheet, and insert that with the dough into a large plastic garbage bag. This creates the humid hothouse similar to what professionals use.

A lot of fundamental information that all cooks should know. Many good tips. Terrific recipes that most cooks can follow and be successful.